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At Hollowbrook Creamery, cheesemaking begins before dawn, when raw milk is warmed in copper vats to encourage the starter culture to convert lactose into lactic acid. Rennet is added only once the milk reaches a precise acidity, curdling it into a soft mass that is then cut into small cubes to release whey. The size of these cubes determines moisture content: smaller cubes yield firmer, drier cheeses such as cheddar, while larger cubes retain more whey for softer varieties. After pressing, wheels are moved to a cave-like room kept at a constant twelve degrees, where they age for anywhere from six weeks to two years. The creamery's head cheesemaker insists that no artificial preservatives are used, relying instead on salt rinds to deter unwanted bacteria.